1. Great Wood – When building, use naturally decay-resistant or properly treated lumber for wooden decks and other outdoor structures. Don’t let untreated wood posts or lumber sit directly on concrete.
2. Clean Joints – Clean joints between deck boards or between a deck and any other structure so dirt & debris won’t hold moisture.
3. Downspouts Pointed Away – Aluminum downspouts and water run-off should be guided away from the deck.
4. Keep it Dry – Make sure that instruments you use for watering (hoses, sprinklers, etc..) not spray the deck.
5. Airflow – Since airflow is crticial, ensure that the underside of the porch breathes correctly. To prevent moisture buildup & wood degradation the space under the deck should not be completely sealed.
6. Keep it Clean – Don’t let leaves, barbeque grill covers, etc…. layout on your deck for long periods. Plants in clay pots sitting on the deck or porch can cause moisture pooling; likewise, plants and shrubs planted close can contribute to moisture and water buildup on and around your deck. This allows mold and moisture to develop underneath.
7. Stain Early, Often – Add stains and sealers before the deck looks like it’s needing it. Create a consistent schedule where you add the sealer so it’s consistently apllied before the wood starts getting dried out. These can treat the wood and prevent moisture from leading to rot.
8. Underdeck – If you have a 2nd story deck over a ground floor deck, make sure you get an underdeck drainage system to prevent additional wear to the bottom deck. With underdeck drainage installed, your primary floor deck can behave like a unenclosed sunroom on rainy days. The bottom floor can now also be used as an extra storage room.

I’m sure these ideas will help you keep your wooden deck beautiful for many years to come.

Easy to Use Hidden Fasteners
Most decks built in the past 25 yers have used the simplest deck building material, galvanized nails, to keep the boards attached to the structure. As a matter of fact, builders have used nails like this for decades and thought very little about other alternatives. Now, stainless steel hidden deck fasteners are becoming more popular and even have power tools to help simplify their installation.

Out of all the fasteners on the market TigerClaw is, by far, the most popular. You should know that TigerClaw Fasteners were created by a contractor who was irritated with the expense and intensive labor of other hidden fastening systems. With a free installation block in every box, these fasteners install faster and easier than other comparable fasteners. With all work done from the top, you can save more on labor costs than compared with other hidden fastener installations.

Constructed from heavy gauge stainless steel, strength and durability are assured. TigerClaw hidden deck fasteners offer resilient hold-down power for both synthetic decking materials & wood. They allow the natural qualities of the wood to be preserved and reduce splitting, splintering, cupping and rotting.

No Visible Nails or Screws
With many new composites and clear-grained wood decking available, blemishing a smooth, even deck surface with unsightly rows of screws or nails is becoming increasingly undesirable.

I know a growing number of contractors are aware of hidden deck fasteners, but the majority aren’t. This article’s objective is to raise consumer awareness, and to bring hidden deck fasteners into the mainstream market.

With hidden deck fasteners, you can produce a better looking, longer lasting, safer deck at an affordable price.

Contributed by James Monroe, DIY Home Center

If you are the type that really cares about quality, you might also read about how to build a fence that lasts.

BRISTOL, CT–(Marketwire – March 23, 2009) – Tiger Claw Inc. today announced the general availability of a new semi-automatic installation tool that dramatically reduces the already-quick installation of Tiger Claw’s groove fasteners. Professional builders and do-it-yourselfers can now build a beautiful nail-free surface deck four times faster than they can through traditional surface screwing. Tiger Claw’s fastener gun is currently the only pneumatic fastener gun on the market today.

The installation gun is used with Tiger Claw’s TC-G hidden deck fastener for pre-grooved boards.

“We recently attended the International Builders’ Show, in Las Vegas, and were thrilled to see the excitement in builders’ and journalists’ eyes when they saw and tried the new fastener gun,” said David Hartmann, president and co-founder of Tiger Claw. “They validated that we have a winning product in our hands. With the speed of the fastener gun, the ease of the TC-G hidden deck fasteners and the convenience of pre-grooved deck boards, builders can decrease their labor time, increase their profits, and ensure happy customers. It’s an ideal building package for those looking for beautiful, quick-and-easy-to-build, nail-free decks.”

The Tiger Claw hidden deck fastener gun was named one of the “Seven Top Picks” from the 2009 International Builders’ Show, by Allen Lyle, Co-Host / Producer of Today’s Homeowner with Danny Lipford.

About the fastener gun

The fastener installation gun drives a UFO Ballistic NailScrew® in like a nail, but can be removed like a screw. Simply slip the hidden deck fastener into the nose of the gun and position it in the groove of the board. The gun automatically enables perfect positioning of fastener and screw installation with the pull of a trigger. Builders now have a one-step installation process for hidden deck fasteners

Tiger Claw’s inventors say, when compared to manually inserting the hidden deck fastener into the groove with your fingers, the gun decreases installation time by about 50%.

About Tiger Claw Hidden Deck Fasteners

Tiger Claw offers a complete line of innovative and versatile hidden deck fasteners. The TC-1 is a coated steel hidden deck fastener and the TC-2 deck fastener is made of stainless steel. Both are ideal for soft woods and pressure treated lumber. The TC-3 is used with composite decking materials and medium density hardwoods, such as Meranti and Cambera mahogany. It may also be used with used with cellular PVC decking materials. The TC-4 is perfect for exotic hardwood decking lumber like Ipe and Teak. The TC-G offers the fastest installation available today with pre-grooved decking or square edge boards using a router or biscuit joiner. All Tiger Claw hidden deck fasteners are manufactured in the United States.

About Tiger Claw Inc.

Tiger Claw Inc. was founded in 1999 and currently offers seven hidden deck fasteners, including the Proclip Cellular PVC Fastener and the Trex Hideaway. Its products are designed to greatly increase the value of construction projects without significantly increasing overall project costs. Tiger Claw is headquartered in Bristol, Connecticut. For more information, visit www.deckfastener.com or call (800) 928-4437.

“Sure,” said I. So, here it is.

Consumer Safety and Product Performance of Micronized Copper Technology Confirmed

GRIFFIN, Ga., Feb. 11 — On Feb. 9, 2009 in a negative public relations document apparently intended to scare users of treated wood, Charlotte, NC-based Viance criticized the effectiveness of micronized copper wood preservatives. “Viance is once again attempting to create unfounded concerns about consumer safety and product performance, using statistically insignificant and suspect data,” said Paul Goydan, President of Osmose, Inc.

Extensive laboratory and extended field testing have confirmed the effectiveness of micronized preservatives. Several world renowned scientists have confirmed the strong performance of this technically advanced preservative technology and have published their comprehensive findings, which support the micronized technology’s efficacy in providing wood protection for both above ground and ground contact applications.

So why this unfounded attack by a competitor? An attack based on an insignificant sample of a few posts selected by this competitor — out of the millions of posts in service? One might conclude the competition has not been able to create a viable alternative product to compete with our patent pending technology and the ever-increasing market penetration of the micronized copper preservative systems. Rather than offering similarly advanced technology, they have resorted to needlessly alarming the public.

MicroPro(R) Treated Wood Facts:

• Over 5 Billion board feet of MicroPro treated wood has been sold since the product introduction in 2006.
• Over 10 Million 4 x 4 micronized treated wood posts are presently in service and performing.
• MicroPro copper based preservative systems have been independently tested and evaluated in accordance with AWPA, ASTM and other internationally recognized laboratory and field test procedures.
• Micronized copper preservative systems are certified by the International Code Council Evaluation Service, Inc. (ICC-ES).
• Osmose’s micronized technologies have earned the Environmentally Preferable Product (EPP) certification from Scientific Certification Systems (SCS).
• Osmose provides a Residential and Agricultural Limited Warranty on MicroPro treated wood products.

Bottom Line

Extensive laboratory and field testing has confirmed the effectiveness of micronized preservatives. International experts have confirmed the legitimacy of this technically advanced preservative technology and published their findings in support of it. Billions of board feet of micronized treated lumber are in service and performing. Since the introduction of micronized copper technology, Viance, the only copper based preservative manufacturer that does not have the micronized technology to offer, has waged a desperate campaign against it in an effort to discredit it. Meanwhile, more and more consumers and retailers continue to embrace the environmental and performance benefits offered by our technically advanced micronized products.

Since 1934, Osmose has produced quality, tested, reliable wood preservatives such as MicroPro. We fully stand behind our products and back them with industry leading warranties.

For additional information regarding MicroPro, please contact Osmose at (800) 241-0240 or visit http://www.osmosewood.com.

CHARLOTTE, N.C., Feb. 9 /PRNewswire/ — Findings on 4×4 posts at residential locations reveal dramatic evidence that wood treated with micronized copper preservative(MCQ(TM)) is decaying more rapidly than anticipated. These decay findings raise serious concerns about the structural integrity and safety of outdoor structures, such as decks and fencing, built with micronized copper preservatives within the last three years.

“We are very concerned about the safety of possibly millions of consumers whose decks and other structures were built with micronized copper-treated wood because the wood may be subject to early failure and possible collapse,” said Steve Ainscough, president and CEO of Viance, a leading provider of wood preservation technologies that refuses to offer micronized copper preservatives due to ongoing concerns about the technology.

Residential Findings in Southeastern U.S. Show Evidence of Significant Decay

Today’s announcement is based on Viance’s in-service findings of decay on 4×4 posts located in multiple residential locations near Atlanta, Georgia and Baton Rouge, Louisiana. Timber Products Inspection (TP), a leading independent and accredited wood products inspection and testing organization in the United States, supervised the identification, extraction and testing of the decaying posts at these locations.

TP’s reports describe numerous posts receiving a rating of “less than sound” on the American Wood Protection Association (AWPA) rating scale. The decaying posts from these multiple subdivisions were rated at “9.5,” “9″ and “8″ on the AWPA’s scale of 1 to 10. One post removed from the Georgia location was rated a “7,” which the AWPA defines as having moderate to severe attack with 10 to 30% of the cross sectional area subject to decay. A decay rating of 7 or below is considered unserviceable by the building industry. TP verified that the average preservative penetration and retentions for the samples examined met the current retention requirements outlined in the International Code Council Evaluation Service (ICC-ES) requirements for MCQ products. The TP report is available in it’s entirety at Viance’s website; www.Treatedwood.com. Furthermore, TP’s reports indicate that the decay is present in the outside zones of the posts below the ground line, to a depth of nearly one inch on some posts.

According to Lee Gjovik, a widely published independent wood scientist, “Any decay on a post that’s only been in service for less than two years represents a significant amount of unexpected decay. Decay ratings of 9.0 or 9.5 should not occur until after many years of service.”

“Another cause for concern,” explains Ainscough, “is that the decay we’re seeing is below the line of sight where consumers may not be able to see or properly inspect the posts. A post’s strength comes primarily from the outer surface of the post, and it is also in this area that the preservatives are present and must prevent decay. The hidden or buried portion of a post must have preservatives that work and prevent decay or the post and structures will fail.”

These recent decay findings corroborate the results of Viance’s ongoing field tests, which were presented to the lumber and building products industries in the spring of 2008 and can be downloaded in their entirety at www.treatedwood.com.

An Overview Of Today’s Technologies

Micronized copper-treated wood products were first introduced to the marketplace in 2006. The manufacturers of micronized copper preservatives, Osmose(R), Arch(R) Wood Protection and PhibroWood(R), have not submitted any of these products to the AWPA for review or standardization. Micronized copper wood preservatives are sold to U.S. builders and consumers through more than 5,000 lumberyards and some leading national home center chains.

Viance remains committed to providing its customers with high quality, industry standardized preservatives, such as Preserve(R) ACQ(R) and Ecolife(R) Stabilized, Weather-Resistant Wood, and ongoing information, testing and investigations regarding the performance of micronized copper-treated products.

Viance LLC provides an extensive range of advanced wood treatment technologies and services to the global wood treatment industry. With an expertise in wood biocides and wood protection chemicals, Viance provides high-level product support to its customers to provide innovative, advanced solutions that improve the performance and durability of wood and wood products. Viance is a joint venture between Rohm and Haas Company and Chemical Specialties, Inc., a wholly owned subsidiary of Rockwood Holdings, Inc. For more information about wood treatment technology and Viance products, visit www.treatedwood.com.

SOURCE Viance LLC

Lumber Talk’s Commentary
CCA was a great chemical. It would be nice if its removal from residential use because of its scary-sounding ingredient arsenate could be substantiated with proof that it was actually harmful (not to wish harm to anyone). It would make the idea that we now use inferior products like MCQ a little easier to swallow.

Osmose’s Rebuttal
Please see Osmose’s MCQ rebuttal which they sent almost immediately after this posting.

Pressure Treated Wood Posts
No additional work required – just buy wood posts treated for ground contact (usually .40pcf). Depending on the area where you are installing your pressure treated wood posts, they should last between 10 and 30 years (maybe more). 10 years if the area is pretty wet and/or has a bad termite problem and 30 years if the area is pretty dry.

Poly Coated Treated Wood Posts
I only know of one place that offers poly coated wood posts – American Pole and Timber based in Houston, TX. The coating is a UV-resistant “poly urea” coating (look and feels like heavy vinyl) and is obviously tough as hell and will not come off of the wood. They guarantee treated poly coated posts will last 50 years. Pretty impressive. The product has only been around for about 10 years but I would put money on 50 years for treated wood coated with a thick UV-resistant vinyl. They supply any quantity but if you are outside of Texas or Louisiana, you might need to buy quite a few to justify the freight expense. You only need to have the post coated from about 6 inches above the ground line to the bottom of the post.

Plastic Coated Wood Posts
Similar to poly coated wood but I wouldn’t put my money on it. Buy treated posts and spray the bottom of the post up to about 6 inches above the ground line with spray-on plastic in a can. You can get a can of spray-on plastic for about $5 at the major big-box hardware stores. One can should easily cover the bottom 3 feet of about 10 posts. It’s cheaper than the vinyl option and should add 10 years onto any posts life.

Sealants or Stains
If you are going to seal or stain pressure treated wood, make sure it is dry first since sealing in the moisture left from the treating process will only make your posts rot faster. Sealing untreated posts will add a few years to their lives but, seriously, just get treated posts – unless you just LIKE replacing fences.

Paint
Paint is for color – not protection. Yes, it protects a little but, again, if you are going to use paint to preserve untreated wood posts just go ahead and admit that you like replacing fence posts. Want color? Paint away. Want preservation? Use treated posts.

The BEST WAY to Preserve Wood Posts
In my opinion, the absolute BEST way to preserve wood posts is with pressure treatment – whichever treatment chemical you choose – and a coating of some kind. The longest lasting wood posts will be pressure treated and coated with the vinyl coating. The most bang for your buck will probably be to use pressure treated posts and spray-on plastic.

Now you know how to preserve wood posts and which methods will work best for you. If you choose paint, don’t call me because I hate replacing posts. I will gladly lay in my hammock – supported by my vinyl coated treated posts – while you install your second set of painted posts, though.

Can I stain pressure treated lumber?
Yes. You can stain pressure treated lumber as long as the wood is dry.

Why do I have to wait before staining pressure treated lumber?
The pressure treating process involves using a water-based solution to carry the treatment chemicals into the fibers of the lumber while under pressure. The process leaves the wood wet. If you want wood that is already dry, purchase KDAT lumber (KDAT = Kiln Dried After Treatment). KDAT is usually #1 and, yes, it costs more.

What are the consequences of staining pressure treated wood before it’s dry?
The stain or paint will probably bubble a little AND locking moisture into the wood might create a great place for fungus or rot to take hold and destroy some boards.

How long should I wait (allow the wood to dry) before staining pressure treated lumber?
It depends (of course). In a sunny, hot, and windy climate where it never rains your pressure treated lumber will probably be dry in a few weeks. In a cold and muggy climate (Seattle, for instance) it will take months for your wood to dry.

Some professionals recommend building whatever you are building and waiting about six months before staining pressure treated lumber. Then, stain the lumber after a few weeks of warm sunny weather. This is long enough for the wood to stabilize and for the water from treatment to evaporate. Remember to sweep and/or dust before applying the stain or paint.

Read further to learn about drying lumber yourself…

What kind of stain should I use for pressure treated lumber?
There are many stains and paints on the market. My favorites are based on working with lumber yards and seeing results from Consumer Reports. So, I like Cabot and Wolman brands. Many people thing Thompsons is the best because their marketing is the best. Many professionals completely disagree with the idea that Thompsons is any good at all. I am not saying anything about it – I’m just sayin’. The choice between water-based and oil-based stains is up to you. Read the backs of the cans. Back to staining pressure treated wood…

How should I stain pressure treated lumber? Or, how should I apply the stain?
Read the can because it varies with some stains but most stains can be applied with a brush, sprayer, or sponge. You will probably find a sprayer to be the easiest method.

How can I speed up the lumber drying process and stain my lumber sooner?
The best way is to buy kiln dried lumber (KDAT) in the first place. If you don’t want to do that…

You can dry lumber yourself but you need to be concerned about warping.

Ideally, you should stack the lumber on “sticks”, in the same way wood is stacked for kiln drying, and then strap the bundle to keep in straight. To do this, place a few small (1×1 or 2×2) sticks between each layer of lumber (perpendicular to the lumber and spaced about 3 feet apart) allowing for air flow between the layers. Then wrap a few straps around the lumber and make them tight. This allows air to reach all sides of the lumber while applying pressure to the lumber and minimizing the chance of warping. Warping is caused by the movement of moisture in and out of wood. You need to stabilize/support the wood while it dries. To take it to another level, point a box fan (or two) at the side of the bundle to speed up the flow of air across the lumber. If you set this up in your garage or some dry covered area your lumber will probably be adequately dry in a few weeks.

Should I stain pressure treated lumber yearly?
The answer is simple and goes something like this. If you want your deck/gazebo/arbor/whatever to look better for longer you should stain it on a yearly, or regular, basis. Of course, putting a protective stain or other coating on wood will make it last longer and look better while it lasts.

Staining pressure treated lumber is not rocket science. In fact, there is nothing remotely complicated about it but it does take time and if you don’t do it properly, you’ll mess it all up. If I did not make this point obvious enough above then let me say it again here:

Treated wood must be dry before you stain or paint it.

Enjoy your project. Wear gloves. Wear goggles. Be careful with tools. Work in ventilated areas.

The advantages of ipe deck lumber are clear and include:

• Excellent fire-resistance rating (A1, the same as concrete)
• Naturally high decay and insect resistance (basically, it’s a non-issue)
• Beautiful dark wood
• Hardness rating is about 3 times red oak
• Easily lasts 25 years as decking

When exposed to sun over time, Ipe deck lumber develops a silver-gray tone but its original dark color can be renewed with a pressure washer.

Working with Ipe Deck Lumber

Because of its hardness, ipe decking requires a few extra drill bits, saw blades, and time. Pre-drill all holes and keep your saw blades sharp to avoid damaging the wood while cutting. Prepare to kill a few drill bits and blades.

There are a few deck clip options you can use if you buy ipe deck lumber with grooves cut on the edges.? This allows you to build your ipe deck without having visible screws on top.

Ipe does not easily accept stains or protective treatments but most people buy largely for the color and its natural resistance is so excellent it usually does not need protection anyway.

Ipe Deck Lumber is NOT for Hippies

Ipe wood comes mostly from forests ranging from Mexico to Northern Argentina and many of the trees logged for ipe lumber are probably taken illegally.? Fortunately, most of the ipe lumber now used comes from cultivated trees.? If you are concerned about the social and environmental issues around using imported wood, check that your ipe deck lumber is FSC certified.? Although, FSC certifications have been forged before, you can generally rest assured that FSC certified ipe deck lumber comes from legitimate forests, conscientious timber companies, and responsible lumber dealers. Of course, responsibility might cost more.

Level Rails, Level Pickets: As my amazing drawing below shows, this method gives the top of the fence line a stair-step look. The tops of the pickets will be more stable and supported than the bottoms of the pickets. You could strengthen the bottom of the fence with a rot board running parallel to the ground. Using level rails means you either have to put your rails closer together or use fewer rails.

Level Rails, Sloped Pickets: The top of the fence line is parallel to the ground but the tops and the bottoms of the pickets are left unsupported. You can strengthen the fence pickets at the top with a top rail, which also makes the fence look nice, and you can strengthen the bottom with a rot board.

Sloped Rails, Sloped Pickets: I like this one the best but you have to decide how level you want the top of the fence. Do you want to trim the tops off the fence pickets or do you want to leave them untrimmed with a small rise from picket to picket? It’s up to you and it barely matters. This is my favorite method because it easily allows for three rails AND the pickets are well-supported from top to bottom along the length of the fence.

Sloped Rails, Level Pickets: This is my second favorite method because it allows for three rails but the drawback is that you still end up with pickets that are unsupported at their tops. If you want the stair-step look in your fence, this is probably the way to go.

IMPORTANT (REALLY): If you are building a gate on the slope portion of your fence, put the hinges on the DOWNHILL side so it will open towards the downhill side instead of swinging into the hill.

Level Rails versus Sloped Rails:? Unless you are building your fence on unusually rough or unlevel terrain, I would suggest always sticking with sloped rails and sloped pickets. Levels rails are easier to build if you are building in an area where you have to move a lot of rocks or something. Some people might just prefer the straighter lines of the level pickets.

Whichever method you choose to build your fence on a slope, you can use a rot board at the bottom to strengthen the fence and protect the bottoms of the pickets and a top rail will improve the looks of your fence and provided additional strength up there as well. Screws are better than nails and always use properly treated wood.

Here are more tips on how to build a fence that lasts.

Building a wooden fence can be backbreaking work but, conceptually speaking, it is very simple. You choose your layout, mark your corners, stretch a string to keep your lines straight, set your fence posts, add rails, add a gate, add pickets, and you are done. Again, at its core…

Here’s some help if you are building your fence on a slope.

How to Build a Fence (the basic version)

1. Choose Your Fence Layout
2. Mark the Fence Corners
3. Stretch a String Between Corners
4. Set Your Fence Posts
5. Add Fence Rails
6. Add Gate
7. Add Fence Pickets

How to Build a Fence that Will LAST

The main point of this article is about how to build a fence that will last. There are a few things you can do to build a fence that will outlast the other fences in the fence line. Your neighbors will be replacing old worn out fence materials while you sit atop your fence saluting their hard work and poor construction methods.

Building a long-lasting fence can also be broken down into a short list similar to the one above but with a few additional details…

Steps to Build a Fence that will Last

1. Choose Your Fence Layout (same)
2. Mark the Fence Corners (same)
3. Stretch a String Between Corners (same)
4. Set Your Heavily Treated or Coated Fence Posts
5. Add 3 Fence Rails (not two) Using Screws
6. Add a “Rot Board”
7. Add Gate
8. Add Fence Pickets Using Screws

The builder of this fence went for longevity using .60 CCA treated 6×6 posts and a “rot board.” The fence also looks beautiful because of the trim boards at the top and the fact that the rails and pickets are set inside and between the posts. This can be done using 4×4 posts but it looks funny because the posts are so small (relatively).

There are three main components of any project. In no particular order of importance, they are:

1. Design
2. Materials
3. Construction

Each of these three components must be respected for any project to produce a strong and long lasting result. Building a fence is no different. Taking these components into account, here’s a brief overview of what you can do to build a fence that will outlast your expectations. It is easiest to analyze proper fence construction at the components level.

Think Longevity by the Piece

Design your fence with longevity in mind. A fence is only composed of four basic components:

1. Posts
2. Rails
3. Pickets
4. Fasteners

Build your fence so that each component supports, and is supported by, the components around it. Think about how you want the fence to look five years from now as you design it, buy your fence materials, and build it.

Fence Posts – A Strong Foundation

Posts rot at the ground line so protect against that. Use posts that are well treated and come from a reputable location. For the absolute best results, use posts coated with a polymer coating such as the ones produced by the folks at American Pole and Timber. They coat the bottom three feet of treated posts with a polymer coating that is guaranteed for 25 years. 4×4-8′ posts cost about $17 each instead of $8 but you will probably be able to use the posts again for your next fence – saving you time and headaches down the road.

Other long lasting fence post tips include:

• Plant deeply – about 1/3 the height of the fence.
• Tamp the bottom of each post hole to minimize settling over time.
• Encourage drainage with a thin layer of gravel (a few inches is fine) at the base of the posts.
• Level carefully to ensure the posts well aligned and straight.
• Pack the dirt tightly around the posts after they are installed.
• Cap, slant, or round the top of each fence post so water cannot accumulate.

Whether or not you want to set your posts in concrete is up to you. While concrete makes a post seem permanent I am not convinced it actually makes the fence last much longer and it definitely makes removal a real bear.

Along the same vein, you can also consider using larger fence posts such as 6×6′s. The look cool, are really strong, and are usually treated more heavily that 4×4′s. They also require larger holes and are very heavy so you will probably need help putting each fence post in place. Are they necessary? Probably not but they will provide an excellent foundation.

Fence Rails – Use Three

Rails sag over time and there two are primary ways you can combat this – build with your rails on their “edges” so you will have a stronger “depth-of-section” and use three rails so each rail supports less weight. A third option is to set the fence posts closer together. Always use treated wood. #2 grade treated lumber is great for a fence – cost effective and strong.

If you get nothing else out of this how to article, take this away – use three rails. Pickets have a weakness that shows up over time but is seldom considered when the fence is being built. Pickets have a tendency to warp. Using three rails dramatically improves the chances that your fence’s pickets will remain straight.

Use 3 Rails when Building Your Fence

Toenail your fence rails to your posts. Not only does it look better than butted rails but it leaves no spaces between pickets and rails where grass can grown and critters can hide. Birds and other nesting animals often build homes in the spaces between posts and pickets, especially in “neighbor friendly” fences with alternating panels.

I prefer to “toenail” fence rails because this method creates straighter lines and does not leave a space for grass, weeds, and critters to creep between the posts and the pickets.

Fence Pickets – Lift & Support

Most pickets come in 5/8″ thick but use 3/4″ thick pickets if you can find them. That would be the same as using 1″ nominal dimension lumber. Call around the local lumber yards. Yes, the will cost a little bit more but will last longer, warp less, and look better.

Make sure you use treated pickets. A good treated picket will last 10 years if maintained with the occasional stain. An untreated picket will last only a few years. This should not be a big concern because you usually won’t even find UNtreated pickets – there’s no point in making them. You can also consider cedar, redwood, or any other variety of “naturally resistant” wood species.

The best two things you can do to extend the life of fence pickets are to use a rot board and a three rail system. Again, if you take nothing else away from this article…use three rails. The rot board lifts the fence pickets off the ground where they are in contact with pests and moisture and keeps them aways from regular beatings by a weed eater. A three rail systems supports fence pickets more effectively to minimize warping.

Fasteners – Use Screws

Use screws for everything. Good deck screws such as Primeguard Plus coated deck screws do not rust and will not pull out like nails. Building your fence with screws minimizes warping and helps keep your fence solid and tight. When building your fence gate, use excellent hardware – not the cheapest kit you find. Use galvanized or zinc coated hinges and hardware to minimize rust.

Fence Maintenance

Now that we have gone over the basics of how to build a fence that will last, let’s look quickly at fence maintenance. There’s not a lot to do, really. Just spray the fence with a great high quality deck and fence sealer every few years and you should be great. A few of the best brands are Cabot and Wolman, according to a Consumer’s Report article as well as my experience.

Examine the fence occasionally for broken boards or sagging rails. If one rail is sagging, it is not properly supporting the components around it. Replace broken boards. Not only do they look bad but when they flop back and forth, they put unwelcome stress on the rails.

A long-lasting fence will cost a few dollars more up front but you will save money in the long-run because it will last longer and you might even get to re-use your fence posts. Most fences are still in service looooong after their aesthetic life died a slow miserable death. Another benefit of a well-built fence is that it will always look good.

How to Build Deck Stairs – It’s Easy

Deck stairs are built just like the rest of the deck. To add deck stairs onto your existing deck, you simply fasten deck boards (steps or treads) to the tops of decks stair stringers and attach the stairs to your deck. You can make the stair stringers yourself or you may be able to find pre-made stair stringers but even the pre-made stringers will need some customizing based on the height of your deck. Now, let’s build some deck stairs.

Calculating How Many Steps Your Deck Stairs Need

The easiest way to figure out how many steps your deck stairs stringers will need is to use the very simple rule of dividing the height of your deck by the riser height of your steps (and round to the nearest number). Risers are usually 6 to 8 inches high. The height of your deck is measured from the ground to the top of the deck boards (where you step onto the deck).

So, if you want 7 inch risers and the height of your deck is 48 inches then 48/7 = 6.86 steps. After rounding, you will build 7 steps into your deck stairs.

Materials Required to Build Deck Stairs

The two main components required to build deck stairs are stair treads and stair stringers.

The treads, or steps, are made from one of the following:

• side-by-side 2×6 or 5/4×6
• 2×10
• 2×12 (my personal preference)

The stair stringers are almost always made from 2×12′s, which are actually 1.5″x11.25″. You might want to use pre-cut stair stringers to ave yourself some time on measuring, layout, and cutting.

Other materials you may need to build deck stairs include:

• Coated Screws (Primeguard Plus are excellent screws)
• Metal Angle (for treads)
• Lag Screws (for treads and/or connecting stairs to deck)
• Hex or Carriage Bolts (for connecting stairs to deck)

Building and Attaching Deck Stairs – Build Deck Stairs from the Ground Up

It is easier to build deck stairs on the ground before attaching them to the deck but they get heavy once all of the stair treads are attached to the stair stringers, which makes them difficult to properly and safely maneuver into position at the deck. The best compromise is to attach your stringers together first and put only a few stairs treads on before attaching the stairs to the deck. Make to use strong hardware such as lag screws or hex bolts when attaching deck deck stairs as the consequences of failing stairs can be disastrous (hopefully this is obvious).

All I have done above is try to prepare you for a few of the sticking points that might make a deck stairs project less fun. Hopefully, by knowing those basics, you will be able to get through your building project a little faster. There are a million places online that will tell you how to build decks and how to build deck stairs. I listed the best of the best below for you.

Great Resources for How to Build Deck Stairs

Step by Step Plans for How to Build Deck Stairs: Installing Deck Stairs

How to Build Deck Stairs: Laying Stringers and Attaching Treads

How to Build Deck Stairs: Design, Layout, and Assembly of Deck Stairs (this is the best how to)

How to Build Deck Stairs Video: Video from This Old House About Building Deck Stairs