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	<title>Comments on: Build a Fence on a Slope</title>
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	<link>http://www.lumbertalk.com/2008/06/09/build-a-fence-on-a-slope/</link>
	<description>Professional-Level Information for the Lumber &#038; Timber Building Industry</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Wed, 05 Oct 2011 18:44:51 -0700</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: Al Lustig</title>
		<link>http://www.lumbertalk.com/2008/06/09/build-a-fence-on-a-slope/comment-page-1/#comment-552</link>
		<dc:creator>Al Lustig</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 05 Mar 2010 21:35:19 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>In responses to Dave Eilertson&#039;s post I have one concern with the common practice of pouring dry concrete into the hole.  In a bag of ready mix concrete the actual cement tends to settle again the sides of the bags as it so fine compared to the rock, therefore it doesn&#039;t get evenly mixed into the footing and won&#039;t be as strong.  Although it takes longer, I premix then pour.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In responses to Dave Eilertson&#8217;s post I have one concern with the common practice of pouring dry concrete into the hole.  In a bag of ready mix concrete the actual cement tends to settle again the sides of the bags as it so fine compared to the rock, therefore it doesn&#8217;t get evenly mixed into the footing and won&#8217;t be as strong.  Although it takes longer, I premix then pour.</p>
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		<title>By: Chris</title>
		<link>http://www.lumbertalk.com/2008/06/09/build-a-fence-on-a-slope/comment-page-1/#comment-218</link>
		<dc:creator>Chris</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 27 Feb 2009 14:50:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.lumbertalk.com/2008/06/09/build-a-fence-on-a-slope/#comment-218</guid>
		<description>There you have it, folks!  Thanks, David.  Good stuff.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>There you have it, folks!  Thanks, David.  Good stuff.</p>
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		<title>By: david eilertson</title>
		<link>http://www.lumbertalk.com/2008/06/09/build-a-fence-on-a-slope/comment-page-1/#comment-217</link>
		<dc:creator>david eilertson</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 Feb 2009 15:47:31 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>Sloped rails/Level Pickets are the way to go. Especially if your building a Convex Top. Just make sure the tallest picket doesn&#039;t extend more than 7&quot; above the top rail. If your building any style flat top picket fence, make sure the pickets don&#039;t extend more than 5-6 inches above the top rail. I have been using three rails on all 4&#039; fences for two years. I have even built 6&#039; fences w/4 rails (probably overkill). 

The biggest mistake most fence companies make is to not bury posts 1/3 of their total length. &quot;No shortcuts&quot;, buy longer posts and cut them. Always set finished top posts at least 3&quot; taller than the highest finished top picket. 1 1/2&quot; spacing between pickets. Don&#039;t markout for picket spacing. Use a 1 1/2&quot; round PVC pipe. 

Pour concrete dry then add 15 seconds of hose water to each post. Hose off all concrete dust from the posts. Don&#039;t nail for at least 48 hrs. Use top string and bottom string when leveling posts. Use stainless steel nails. I could ramble on forever. Build 7&#039; sections. Use a 8&quot; auger bit. 60 lbs. concrete per hole. I own Superior Fence Co. in Mechanicsville, Va.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Sloped rails/Level Pickets are the way to go. Especially if your building a Convex Top. Just make sure the tallest picket doesn&#8217;t extend more than 7&#8243; above the top rail. If your building any style flat top picket fence, make sure the pickets don&#8217;t extend more than 5-6 inches above the top rail. I have been using three rails on all 4&#8242; fences for two years. I have even built 6&#8242; fences w/4 rails (probably overkill). </p>
<p>The biggest mistake most fence companies make is to not bury posts 1/3 of their total length. &#8220;No shortcuts&#8221;, buy longer posts and cut them. Always set finished top posts at least 3&#8243; taller than the highest finished top picket. 1 1/2&#8243; spacing between pickets. Don&#8217;t markout for picket spacing. Use a 1 1/2&#8243; round PVC pipe. </p>
<p>Pour concrete dry then add 15 seconds of hose water to each post. Hose off all concrete dust from the posts. Don&#8217;t nail for at least 48 hrs. Use top string and bottom string when leveling posts. Use stainless steel nails. I could ramble on forever. Build 7&#8242; sections. Use a 8&#8243; auger bit. 60 lbs. concrete per hole. I own Superior Fence Co. in Mechanicsville, Va.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: LumberTalk.com: Professional-Level information and how-to articles for designers and users of wood products. How to Build a Fence that Lasts &#187; Lumber Talk</title>
		<link>http://www.lumbertalk.com/2008/06/09/build-a-fence-on-a-slope/comment-page-1/#comment-108</link>
		<dc:creator>LumberTalk.com: Professional-Level information and how-to articles for designers and users of wood products. How to Build a Fence that Lasts &#187; Lumber Talk</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 09 Jun 2008 19:00:59 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>[...] Here&#8217;s some help if you are building your fence on a slope. [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] Here&#8217;s some help if you are building your fence on a slope. [...]</p>
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