You’ll need lag screws for the whalers – min 5/16″. I am known for “overbuilding” (but my structures don’t break) so I would use 3/8″ or even 1/2″. For an extra dimes per piece you will sleep easier for another 10 years. Tip. You will often save money (a lot) on hardware by buying it from a local small business lumber dealer instead of through a hardware store or big box like Home Depot, etc. You might get better/friendlier service, too.

For the boards/sheets/centermatch use big stainless screws. You’l know ‘em when you see ‘em.

Tip for the boards – cut the 10 footers in half at about a 35 degree angle. When you drive the boards into the dirt, the angle will automatically force them against the adjacent board (the last board you installed).

Chris

Cool project. If it were mine, I would always opt for bigger timbers. Dirt is heavy. I would use 6×6′s or 4×6′s laid flat and backfill with a granular dirt (pebbles, sand, dirt). Have fun building the shed. Whistling helps.

sorry for the slow response. I have trouble getting to this sometimes. Ask your neighbors. Maybe they want to build onto yours. Otherwise, it is very common to build “wing walls”, which are just short walls (3 to 6 feet) that extend back and protect from erosion and such.

Enjoy it, either way.

Chris

That should do it – soak, weigh it down, soak, weight it down. That is a strong piece of wood. It will take some SERIOUS weight – like a car on each end. No kidding.

We are building a 2 ft retaining wall at the front of our property. We plan to use square steel tubes as fence posts and 2 courses of 2×12″ wood placed horizontally. We are also planning to build a fence right on top of this wall by using 8′ steel tubes to anchor both the retaining wall and the fence above it. We think to sink them 3′ down, 2′ retaining wall and then 3′ fence.

Our problem is- what do we do about the sides of the wall? The 2 sides of the wall- one borders our neighbors property and the other borders our driveway. Do we build the sides of the retaining wall too? (like a 3 side huge planter box?!) What sort of anchors do we use if we have to turn the corner of the front retaining wall with the 2×12′ boards?

Thanks

I’m building a 4′ retaining wall that is 70′ long. There is a creek about 40 yards away but the water will not be reaching the retaining wall. Im in northeast FL what type of drainage if any you would recommend?

I will be using 8” butt x 8′ for the piling. I’m spreading them apart every 6′. The whalers will be 2”x8”x12′ that will be double stacked onto the pilings. What is the proper size screw I will need to attach the whalers to the pilings?

I will also be using 2”x8”x10′ cutting them in 1/2 for the wall. What is the proper size screw to attach the wall to the whalers.

Thanks!!

I don’t get it. Give a little more description and I will be more than happy to give it a shot.

Thanks!

There’s a lot going on there and I hate answering questions like that too specifically. Here’s what I (that’s a big boooooold capital “I”) would do…
1. No tiebacks – it’s just mulch. I would use longer rebar – driven into the ground much farther, especially on the taller sides.
2. Depends on the size of the timbers. 4X4′s would get rebar only, 6×6 or larger would probably get some nails, too. (those dudes are heavy)
3. Every 4 feet seems fair enough but, again, I would drive it deeper into the ground – like 2X height of wall into the ground.
4. Fully (FULLY) sunk into the wood. We don’t want any accidents with the kiddos.
5. Hmm, you’ll have to test that one but you are right that it should be very snug. Remember that treated wood will shrink when it dries.

I hope this got to you before your project. Otherwise, I hope it helps someone else. Great questions!

Chris

p.s., all that stuff is just what I would do.