Comments on: How to Build a Retaining Wall http://www.lumbertalk.com/2007/12/19/how-to-build-a-retaining-wall/ Professional-Level Information for the Lumber & Timber Building Industry Mon, 03 Oct 2011 15:49:33 -0700 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v= By: Mark http://www.lumbertalk.com/2007/12/19/how-to-build-a-retaining-wall/comment-page-1/#comment-637 Mark Mon, 03 Oct 2011 15:49:33 +0000 http://www.lumbertalk.com/2007/12/19/how-to-build-a-retaining-wall/#comment-637 Chris, I will be building a 30'x5' retaining wall on my lake front property. Your comments in this section are noted and appreciated. The lake where the work is to be done is down and I can work in the area and not deal with water in setting the pilings. I have 3 questions. 1.I will be using 6"x12' treated round posts. Can I auger down 5' to set the post and fill with concrete or should I backfill with dirt (mostly silt & clay)? I was told that concreting the post under the lakebed could cause the post to rot faster. 2. If I don't have room to use a deadman, can I set the posts every 2-3 feet for support versus every 4-6 feet? or should I excavate back further to install the deadman? I have about a 10 degree slope to the edge. 3. Can I backfill behind the wall with the clay/silt that was pulled from the lakebed or should I use gravel? Mark Chris,
I will be building a 30′x5′ retaining wall on my lake front property. Your comments in this section are noted and appreciated. The lake where the work is to be done is down and I can work in the area and not deal with water in setting the pilings. I have 3 questions.
1.I will be using 6″x12′ treated round posts. Can I auger down 5′ to set the post and fill with concrete or should I backfill with dirt (mostly silt & clay)? I was told that concreting the post under the lakebed could cause the post to rot faster.
2. If I don’t have room to use a deadman, can I set the posts every 2-3 feet for support versus every 4-6 feet? or should I excavate back further to install the deadman? I have about a 10 degree slope to the edge.
3. Can I backfill behind the wall with the clay/silt that was pulled from the lakebed or should I use gravel?

Mark

]]> By: Chris http://www.lumbertalk.com/2007/12/19/how-to-build-a-retaining-wall/comment-page-1/#comment-634 Chris Fri, 16 Sep 2011 16:52:38 +0000 http://www.lumbertalk.com/2007/12/19/how-to-build-a-retaining-wall/#comment-634 I don't know what you mean by "deal with" and "overhanging away from wall." I am happy to help if you help me understand, though. I don’t know what you mean by “deal with” and “overhanging away from wall.” I am happy to help if you help me understand, though.

]]> By: Chris http://www.lumbertalk.com/2007/12/19/how-to-build-a-retaining-wall/comment-page-1/#comment-619 Chris Wed, 08 Jun 2011 06:11:36 +0000 http://www.lumbertalk.com/2007/12/19/how-to-build-a-retaining-wall/#comment-619 Sorry, Frank. I can't say I know anyone up there. Anyone? (spam is filtered but I don't mind sending Frank an email with legit info). Sorry, Frank. I can’t say I know anyone up there. Anyone? (spam is filtered but I don’t mind sending Frank an email with legit info).

]]> By: Chris http://www.lumbertalk.com/2007/12/19/how-to-build-a-retaining-wall/comment-page-1/#comment-606 Chris Sun, 03 Apr 2011 00:04:24 +0000 http://www.lumbertalk.com/2007/12/19/how-to-build-a-retaining-wall/#comment-606 I might recommend gravel if you are in a place with very clay soil and slow drainage. Otherwise, the lack of oxygen underground (along with well-treated timbers) is the best protection. I might recommend gravel if you are in a place with very clay soil and slow drainage. Otherwise, the lack of oxygen underground (along with well-treated timbers) is the best protection.

]]> By: Chris http://www.lumbertalk.com/2007/12/19/how-to-build-a-retaining-wall/comment-page-1/#comment-605 Chris Sun, 03 Apr 2011 00:01:27 +0000 http://www.lumbertalk.com/2007/12/19/how-to-build-a-retaining-wall/#comment-605 Hey Steve, You know what? I don't know much about sound proofing so you got me there. Putting the posts two feet in the ground is right on the edge of adequate, though. You might consider putting more in the ground (via longer posts or a shorter wall). Hey Steve,

You know what? I don’t know much about sound proofing so you got me there. Putting the posts two feet in the ground is right on the edge of adequate, though. You might consider putting more in the ground (via longer posts or a shorter wall).

]]> By: Chris http://www.lumbertalk.com/2007/12/19/how-to-build-a-retaining-wall/comment-page-1/#comment-604 Chris Sat, 02 Apr 2011 23:57:31 +0000 http://www.lumbertalk.com/2007/12/19/how-to-build-a-retaining-wall/#comment-604 Hi Bob, That sounds like a great plan. I would use .60 treated timbers, though, to ensure they last a really long time. Also, some people use a '3X the height of the wall' rule-of-thumb for the tie back rods, which would put yours at more like 9 feet long but you are probably ok with 5'. Your plan is great overall. Hi Bob,

That sounds like a great plan. I would use .60 treated timbers, though, to ensure they last a really long time. Also, some people use a ’3X the height of the wall’ rule-of-thumb for the tie back rods, which would put yours at more like 9 feet long but you are probably ok with 5′.

Your plan is great overall.

]]> By: Steve http://www.lumbertalk.com/2007/12/19/how-to-build-a-retaining-wall/comment-page-1/#comment-588 Steve Sun, 17 Oct 2010 02:21:25 +0000 http://www.lumbertalk.com/2007/12/19/how-to-build-a-retaining-wall/#comment-588 Addendum- A lot of people say to put #57 gravel under the base timbers, but you don't. Why not? Also, my project is designed to keep out road noise, and the road is sixty feet away, and the road level is fifteen feet lower than the base of the wall, and partially blocked by an embankment. Addendum-

A lot of people say to put #57 gravel under the base timbers, but you don’t. Why not? Also, my project is designed to keep out road noise, and the road is sixty feet away, and the road level is fifteen feet lower than the base of the wall, and partially blocked by an embankment.

]]> By: Steve http://www.lumbertalk.com/2007/12/19/how-to-build-a-retaining-wall/comment-page-1/#comment-587 Steve Sat, 16 Oct 2010 14:03:24 +0000 http://www.lumbertalk.com/2007/12/19/how-to-build-a-retaining-wall/#comment-587 Chris; I want to build a soundproofing wall with timbers. This would not be a retaining wall, but a free-standing wall. I was thinking of making it 12 inches thick, using two walls of 6 by 6 eight foot timbers and attaching them together somehow. I would like to make it six feet high. Any suggestions, recommendations, or alternative approaches? The wall will be forty feet long. Steve Chris;

I want to build a soundproofing wall with timbers. This would not be a retaining wall, but a free-standing wall. I was thinking of making it 12 inches thick, using two walls of 6 by 6 eight foot timbers and attaching them together somehow. I would like to make it six feet high. Any suggestions, recommendations, or alternative approaches? The wall will be forty feet long.

Steve

]]> By: Chris http://www.lumbertalk.com/2007/12/19/how-to-build-a-retaining-wall/comment-page-1/#comment-573 Chris Wed, 14 Jul 2010 10:15:49 +0000 http://www.lumbertalk.com/2007/12/19/how-to-build-a-retaining-wall/#comment-573 Ron, Unfortunately, I totally missed this one so it's probably too late to help. Either way, if by "drainage" you mean backfill then you should probably use something granular like sand or dirt with pebbles so the water will drain away instead of holding pressure on the wall. You'll need lag screws for the whalers - min 5/16". I am known for "overbuilding" (but my structures don't break) so I would use 3/8" or even 1/2". For an extra dimes per piece you will sleep easier for another 10 years. Tip. You will often save money (a lot) on hardware by buying it from a local small business lumber dealer instead of through a hardware store or big box like Home Depot, etc. You might get better/friendlier service, too. For the boards/sheets/centermatch use big stainless screws. You'l know 'em when you see 'em. Tip for the boards - cut the 10 footers in half at about a 35 degree angle. When you drive the boards into the dirt, the angle will automatically force them against the adjacent board (the last board you installed). Chris Ron,
Unfortunately, I totally missed this one so it’s probably too late to help. Either way, if by “drainage” you mean backfill then you should probably use something granular like sand or dirt with pebbles so the water will drain away instead of holding pressure on the wall.

You’ll need lag screws for the whalers – min 5/16″. I am known for “overbuilding” (but my structures don’t break) so I would use 3/8″ or even 1/2″. For an extra dimes per piece you will sleep easier for another 10 years. Tip. You will often save money (a lot) on hardware by buying it from a local small business lumber dealer instead of through a hardware store or big box like Home Depot, etc. You might get better/friendlier service, too.

For the boards/sheets/centermatch use big stainless screws. You’l know ‘em when you see ‘em.

Tip for the boards – cut the 10 footers in half at about a 35 degree angle. When you drive the boards into the dirt, the angle will automatically force them against the adjacent board (the last board you installed).

Chris

]]> By: Chris http://www.lumbertalk.com/2007/12/19/how-to-build-a-retaining-wall/comment-page-1/#comment-572 Chris Wed, 14 Jul 2010 10:04:52 +0000 http://www.lumbertalk.com/2007/12/19/how-to-build-a-retaining-wall/#comment-572 Hey Chuck, Cool project. If it were mine, I would always opt for bigger timbers. Dirt is heavy. I would use 6x6's or 4x6's laid flat and backfill with a granular dirt (pebbles, sand, dirt). Have fun building the shed. Whistling helps. Hey Chuck,

Cool project. If it were mine, I would always opt for bigger timbers. Dirt is heavy. I would use 6×6′s or 4×6′s laid flat and backfill with a granular dirt (pebbles, sand, dirt). Have fun building the shed. Whistling helps.

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